Sorting for Circularity Europe

Data methodology

Using innovative Near Infrared (NIR) technology to determine garment composition, the project analysed a total of 21 tonnes of post-consumer garments collected from 6 countries – Germany, United Kingdom, Netherlands, Poland, Belgium, and Spain. On-the-ground examinations were performed over two time periods, autumn/winter 2021 and spring/summer 2022, to account for seasonal changes in the types of garments entering sorting facilities. The project focused on textiles that cannot be reused in their original form (considered ‘non-rewearable’) and textiles that can only be resold at low prices (‘low value rewearable’). The sample data was extrapolated to country level volume estimates, using weight data from textiles collected in the focus countries available through prior literature. This data only pertains to Mono layered items, without disruptors or with removable disruptors (metal and plastic), and in all colours.

Notes

The focus countries for the project were Belgium, Germany, the Netherlands, Poland, Spain, and the United Kingdom, where collectively, 2,116,000 tonnes of PCT are collected each year. Sorters participating in this Project indicated 49% of collected PCT are considered fit for the domestic or global second-hand market (‘rewearables’), 6% rewearables with low market value, 26% non-rewearable, 11% footwear and the remaining 8% is waste. After removing 7% due to multilayered items unsuitable for recycling, the target fraction (low value rewearables & non-rewearables) totalled 626,000 tonnes.

From this, 494,000 tonnes of textiles, or 23% of the 2,116,000 tonnes of PCT collected each year in the focus countries, was ascertained to have the potential for fibre-to-fibre recycling as per current specifications of mechanical and chemical recyclers.